Italian style: the basics
|1. Classical Italian style avoids excesses and extremes. Also, it stays independent from fleeting fashion trends. Instead, it goes for simple and understated elegance. The ideal is to feel good in your clothes and wear them with nonchalance.
2. Choose a classic plain navy or grey suit with two or three buttons (the third concealed) and side openings for a more dynamic shape. Striped fabrics or thin squares are not a no-no, provided that overly complex shapes are avoided. Finally, remember that what makes a fine suit is the quality of the fabric, its cut and the finishing. For example, the woollen fabric chosen should be soft and resistant, of the right weight, etc. For made-to-measure suits, finishing must be done strictly by hand.
3. Shirts can be white or light blue for a classic elegance or, for a more sophisticated style, pinstriped with single colour, blue or white (be careful how you combine shapes and colours with your suit). Again, the quality of the materials (the weight of the cotton and nacre buttons) makes all the difference. Avoid seams and contrasting collars, coloured buttons, etc.
4. As mentioned before, avoid overly large or excessively tight cuts. A narrow and slim fit is fine, as this blends in with the general trend; however, avoid choosing ridiculous or overstated cuts.
5. Neither too short nor too long: the tie should come down to the belt, with the two blades the same length. Avoid extreme widths (the ideal width is between 8 and 9 cm) and knots that are too fat or too thin. Luxuriate in the haptics of the tie, in other words the how the tie feels to the touch. For high quality, the feel must be consistent, a subtle mixture of crispy and delicate, as the silk should still be very soft. Choose dark colours, preferably navy blue (never black), if you want to stay formal. As with geometric patterns, they must be discreet and simple.
6. Shoes must be of high-quality and relatively thick leather, similar to that used for the soles. Go for black as a preference, although dark brown is acceptable for wearing during the day or with more casual trousers.
7. The belt should be the same colour as the shoes, in other words black or dark brown. Avoid buckles that are too big or too bold in design. Choose a buckle that is sewn to the belt rather than one that is screwed onto the belt.
8. Socks must be strictly knee-high and navy blue, black or dark grey.